I climb exclusively in the gym right now, but I plan on getting outside and doing some top-rope routes once I get some strength up and better technique. With that said, use the information above to inform you that I am new to the sport; I'm not some hardened trad veteran that remembers when cams were introduced. So, take note that this review comes from a newer member to the climbing circle…
Anyway, The Grigri. This is THE belaying device for the gym, bar none. I do think that one should be proficient in using an ATC or similar belay device for a myriad of reasons, especially if you are going outdoors and plan to do some sport climbing instead of top-rope, where the Grigri really shines. I don't view the Grigri as a replacement for other belay devices, but more of a compliment to other belay devices.
Pluses
It’s so easy to use!! You can teach ANYONE to SAFELY belay you in 2 minutes with the Grigri. My girlfriend does not climb, but I can hand the grigri to her and feel 110% safe with her belaying me. Yes, you have to make sure you read the instructions correctly but doesn’t that apply to ANYTHING you would use for climbing?? I’d dare say that more people have fed a rope through an ATC improperly at first than a Grigri, which has a simple little diagram for you to check.
Along those lines, this is the perfect device to lend to friends at the gym who have never climbed. It really is “Belaying for Dummies” like the title says. I wouldn’t teach a friend that’s just coming to the gym for a party or fun afternoon how to effectively use an ATC; I’d give them the Grigri, 2 minutes of instruction and feel confident they will belay just as well as anyone else in the gym.
Safety, safety, safety. If your belayer gets a little lazy or ogles the hot girl climbing a few feet over and you fall, you both could be in a world of hurt using other devices. With the Grigri, it automatically locks up and life goes on. Please note: this is NOT a reason to use bad belay habits or be lazy just because you have a device that is idiot-proof. I NEVER take my brake hand off the rope and I still pay 100% of my attention to the climber, but it is nice to know that there’s an added layer of safety every time you climb with the Grigri. For extreme circumstances or the one in a million events, if your belayer were to be knocked out or incapacitated in any way, the Grigri keeps on belaying you. It’s a total long-shot, but shouldn’t you always factor that into a climbing situation?? I mean, you tie backup knots on a rope or use locking carabiners as backup safety measures so why not have some sort of backup safety on your belay device?? The Grigri does this and with proper use and technique you’ll enjoy peace of mind, every time you climb.
The device is very solid; doesn’t feel cheap. Yes, it’s heavy (read below), but for what it does and how easily it does it I think the weight concern is silly. If you’re climbing multi-pitch routes in Yosemite or something I guess that weight might come into play but I feel much safer with the heavier Grigri in hand since the weight does not affect you or the belaying in any way.
If you set routes in a gym, I can’t imagine there is a better way to do it than with a Grigri. It’s a self-belay machine, though you certainly have to keep up with taking up the slack. I think every gym has one on hand for this very reason.
Limitations
Well, I think the Grigri is almost forced to be used exclusively for top-rope situations. I have seen people belay others that are climbing sport but it's far more difficult since you are asking the Grigri to go against the grain and belay the “opposite” way it was intended to. With a proficient belayer and some practice, I’m sure it could be used for trad or sport though I’m not quite sure it would be your first choice.
Rope size is a concern. In gyms, you’ll rarely go under 10mm or hit 9.8mm that the Grigri lists as its size minimum, so it’s not a concern there but as a belay device used outdoors in sport or trad routes it may be an issue. I’ve read about people using it with smaller ropes but I wouldn’t do it; learn to use an ATC. Also, it will only accommodate one rope. Again, not an issue in the gym or most top-rope routes, but it definitely paints itself in a corner with other types of climbing.
I'm a right-hander so I have no beef here, but I have heard that left-handers find the Grigri a bit tougher to use. I’d think that Petzl would make a lefty-version of the device, but I guess they just feel that it still can be used by a lefty...just not quite as easily.
Negatives
People harp on the weight, but big deal. I mean it’s not like the device is “heavy” in everyday measures, but relative to ATC’s and other belay devices it is quite heavy. Think of it like this: it’s almost like saying that a cordless drill is heavy compared to a screwdriver. Yeah, it is, and they both do the same thing but look at how much easier it is to use the drill and how easy it is to show someone how to use the drill…
The cost is the only other legitimate gripe made of the Grigri. At $80 it’s not cheap, but should you really put a cost on your safety, especially if you plan on letting some less experienced people belay you? Or for that one-in-a-million chance that your belayer passes out or becomes incapacitated in some way?? I’d buy it and pass on eating out for a couple weeks to make up the cost! :-)
Conclusion
There are so many pluses to this device that far outweigh the minuses that it was a no-brainer for me. I am competent using an ATC and I own one and use it from time to time to keep my skills up, but 8/10 times I reach for the Grigri when belaying in the gym. Again, I don’t think this was meant to be a replacement to other ATC devices but more of a compliment to them. Anyone who talks trash on the Grigri is missing this point, end of story. You can’t deny that it’s easier to use and safer than other belay devices, especially in the hands of the less-experienced or people who have never climbed. It probably shouldn’t be used for ALL types of climbing, but for any top-rope situation it’s the clear winner.
I’ll never get rid of this device and I can’t imagine that years down the road I won’t be reaching for the Grigri everytime I belay in the gym and other outdoor top-rope situations. Well done, Petzl.
Allows belaying and lowering of a climbereven where the latter is heavier than the belayer. A handle allows easy control of the device and smooth runn...More at eBay
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